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baja tacos

Day 10, Preliminary Expedition: May 25, 2016

May 25, 2016 (Day 10)

The day was long and mostly full of driving. We left Mulege after a good night’s rest and headed north. Our first stop was Kenny’s taco truck in Vizciano. The best fish tacos in all of Baja! He graciously accepted our offer for an interview on camera as we stuffed a few tacos into our mouths.

Kenny suggested we park the boat in his yard while we headed for the Sierra de San Francisco and the world heritage site of cave paintings. It was a long and slow drive to get to the town of San Francisco. The community seems to survive on raising goats and cows, and providing a guide service to the cave paintings. This is a high altitude community with a permanent water supply. Nelson and Goldman came through here and stopped at the settlement of Santa Ana in October of 1905. Then it was a small, unoccupied ranch along the old El Camino Real.

After some very uncomfortable wanderings about, Greg was able to find a guide to take us to the cave paintings to film. Refugio—a well-seasoned man with gnarled fingers, a slow gate, and a cowboy hat slightly tilted atop his head—was our guide. We drove the mile back down the road to the Cueva del Raton (or Mouse’s Cave) where a chain-link fence with razor wire prevents access unless guided by a local with the key.

The large paintings stretched out on the ceiling of the cave, maybe 20 to 25 feet above the floor. Figures in red and black were spread on the rock; a puma, deer, and humans are clear to see. This site has evidence of human occupation dating back 10,800 years ago.

We retrieved our boat at Kenny’s house and continued on our northern drive to Punta Prieta for the night. Just after sunset as we slid into a grotto of cactus and rocks, pushing it a little harder to get to this near-perfect camping spot in the middle of the peninsula. A roaring fire and one of Greg’s famous dinners was highlighted with a good bottle of red wine from the States.



Day 4, Preliminary Expedition: May 18, 2016

May 18, 2016 (Day 4)

The Bahia de Los Angeles Natural History Museum is curated by Carolina, a lovely and charismatic woman that has put her soul into the museum and the natural history of the area. We were pleased when she agreed to an on-camera interview. We met her at nine this morning in the museum and she was great on camera.

The Bahie de Los Angeles Natural History Musem. Whale bones in foreground.

After leaving Bahia de Los Angeles, we headed to Guerrero Negro to get the T-top welded. We were delayed a bit by a few stops to film along the way. First, we stopped to film a Goldman’s agave plant in full bloom. Next we captured some horses and a donkey wandering through the desert before coming upon a dead donkey on the side of the road, several turkey vultures feeding on its carcass. As we slowed to pull over, we noticed a large bird in the road that had been hit—another vulture. As we got closer, we realized that, astoundingly, he was still alive. JT took a moment to get a few shots of him as he rest there, most likely paralyzed or stunned, blinking and looking at the camera.

Goldman’s Agave (Agave shawii ssp. goldmaniana) in bloom pictured here with Greg Meyer, scientific director of The Devil's Road (left) and JT Bruce, director of The Devil's Road (right).

JT, director, making friends with the locals...

Turkey vulture in road. Most likely stunned or paralyzed from being hit by a passing motorist.

We decided to move on to Loreto to get the T-top welded. I knew where the welding shop was and it was getting late, so we kept driving. A short stop in Vizcaino found no sign of Taco Kenny, or rather Kenny Martinez, who runs a taco cart called Baja Tacos with his wife. I met Kenny during a trip earlier this year, and quickly struck up a friendship. We checked in with him about our return trip and our plans to climb Goldman Peak.

Camping in the desert is always a treat. We found a side road, just south of San Bruno, that lead to a small pueblo and came to a shallow bowl-like basin to camp away from the roadway. We cooked our dinner and settled down with a cocktail around a fire.

Camp at sunset, near San Bruno.

Camp at night.