"The Devil's Road" Main Expedition, Day 35

April 4th (Punta Conjeo to El Triunfo)

Everything was wet when we woke. The dew was so strong it seemed as though it had rained during the night. But, within an hour, most everything was dry. We had found a cool camp site tucked in under some low growing trees and had a great night’s sleep. Our next move was to head to El Triunfo. We had a day to kill before we needed to be in La Paz, so the decision was made to bypass La Paz and film El Triunfo.

Getting through La Paz has always been a problem for us and is notorious for other travelers as well for having very poor signs. We got lost again. One dead end road after another had me frustrated. I flagged down a passing motorist to ask him where the road to Cabo was and he began to stumble as to how to give us directions. After a few puzzling seconds, he said, "Just follow me." This nice man took us three miles out of his way and took us to the right road to Cabo San Lucas. Only in Mexico will you find that kind of hospitality. Thank you!

El Triunfo is an old town with a storied history. At one time 11,000 people lived and worked in this gold and silver mining town. Now only 500 people make it their home. The mining operation is in ruins and restoration work is in place to save the 70-meter smokestack that was designed by Gustav Eiffel. We were met by an interesting fellow that said he was a tour guide and asked if he could show us around. We agreed and he set about to tell us things like, "This is the machine," and "This is the quartz," and "This is the cow." In the end he asked for a propina, or tip, and continued to give us a blank stare when we asked how much the usual tip was. When I reached into my wallet and pulled out a bill, he seemed to not understand what I was doing. Or, was it his way of saying that it was not enough? We were perplexed.

Most of the land surrounding this community is private and well fenced, so we decided to head for Los Barilles to spend the night on the beach. The 30-mile ride was a wonderful mountainous and curvy ride that made the trip out to the beach that much more pleasant to be camping on.

"The Devil's Road" Main Expedition, Day 34

April 3rd (Punta Conjeo)

Back on the highway and heading south, our next stop was the town of San Hilaro, only a few miles off the highway. Nelson and Goldman described it as a small village within an arroyo with a small stream of good water flowing. A few palm trees lined the banks and they stayed for several days to water their horses and gather a few specimens.

Now, there is only a single ranch at San Hilaro. The water still flows, but I would not say was "good." There are a few palms growing in clumps, but mostly the area along the arroyo is a tangled mess of mesquite and acacia. The stock runs free and the ranch was not very inviting so we turned around and headed back to the highway.

Ten miles of dirt road stood between the pavement and the sandy beaches of El Conejo. We thought it would be nice to camp on the beach, dip our toes in the water, and see a part of the Pacific side we had never been to. If you surf, this is the place to be. It is a perfect left point break without crowds. There were four vans parked on the bluff overlooking the waves, all huddled to protect their camp at the center from the wind. They had stacked rocks, laid out surfboards, and strategically placed driftwood to keep the 20-knot winds from blowing sand into everything they owned.

These four groups (three couples and one single guy) were all traveling separately but found themselves in a similar location with a similar mindset: surfing. One couple was just starting a two-year journey to South America. Another was from the Pacific Northwest and was escaping the snow and bad weather, while the last couple didn't have any plans and was not sure where they were going next.

It is not a bad place to be or a life to live when you can walk down the beach to the fishermen and buy lobster for dinner, "showers" are available at the ranch nearby for 50 pesos per person where there is a water tank elevated and a PVC pipe that dumps cold water. This is private property and a guy comes around every morning to collect your name, logging it into an account book.

"The Devil's Road" Main Expedition, Day 33

April 2nd (Puerto San Carlos to Mission San Luis Gonzaga)

In May of last year, JT, Greg and I had the pleasure of meeting and spending the day with Julio Solis of the Waterkeeper Alliance (the Bay Keeper at San Carlos). We had a wonderful day and he gave us a great interview. His interview can be seen in our Isla Magdelena episode on our website. We wanted to check in with him to say hello and see what, if any, changes have happened since we last saw him.

The drive to the bay is not that exciting. It is a straight and well paved road. We did see a few clumps of the Creeping Devil's cactus here and there. Julio, unfortunately, was not around. Disappointed, we drove around town to see if there was anything to film that we had missed last May.

We are officially part of the "biker community." Now, we have been embraced, acknowledged, and other bikers actually wave to us. In San Carlos we drove by a restaurant with 8 or so motorcycles parked out front. It looked like the perfect opportunity to sit and meet some of our fellow riders and eat some good food. We were acknowledged by a biker gang from Ciudad Constitucion called Reyes del Camino. These guys were well decorated with leather vests and biker paraphernalia, but didn't give us much thought and kept to themselves.

As they were leaving, one of the younger members nodded at us his and quietly asked where we were from. His English was good, so I took the opportunity to "break the ice." As it turns out, these guys were tame and very interested in our project. We gave out stickers, which immediately most found a place on their bike to proudly display it. I gave a bandana to the leader and with honor he tied it around his neck. The bikes were a rag-tag display of Yamaha, Suzuki, Harley Davidson, and several unknown brands, even a dirt bike. In Mexico, anything goes! You can’t help but admire it.

Looking at the map and our planned route, we were still several days ahead of schedule and had nothing else to film in the area, so we decided for a side trip to see the Mission San Luis Gonzaga. The twenty-mile dirt and gravel road was not too bad. There were a few thin sandy spots, but they didn't give us any trouble. This mission sits in a shallow arroyo with a stream running through the bottom. Palm trees line the stream banks and as usual, the cows, horses, mules, and donkeys ruled the town. They run freely and leave their "calling cards" everywhere.

San Luis Gonzaga is another small community centered around the mission, it's water, and the livestock that can be raised. It was quiet with many buildings in ruin and we walked around taking pictures uninterrupted. That took all of about 45 minutes and we looked at each other as though we were both asking, "What now?" Since Nelson and Goldman did not come through here, we took the drive to get "B" roll shots and visit a place we had never been. That night we camped in the desert a few miles out of town.

"The Devil's Road" Main Expedition, Day 32

April 1st (Ciudad Insurgentes)

Today was a down day for us (riding and filming that is). The bikes stayed parked for the day and we both caught up on our much needed work. Two ladies had a taco stand across the street from the hotel that we frequented. The coffee and empanadas were good in the morning and the chivo (goat) tacos were some of the best we’ve had all trip. Well worth the 50 feet of street to cross to get there.

Reflections on Reaching the Halfway Mark of the Main Expedition

There are stretches of bad road so intense they take your full concentration to navigate. You need to keep your vision focused at a permanent 10 meters in front of you, like a rattlesnake locking on to its prey, entranced by the heat signature. Your brain adjusts to this viewpoint, the constant blur of dirt and rock flowing under you. When you finally look up at the unmoving horizon, an optical illusion is created. It looks as if the background is shrinking, forever receding in front of your eyes. The goals of our expedition behave uncannily like this illusion.

"The Devil's Road" Main Expedition, Day 31

March 31st (Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos)

This small fishing village has a history of changing its name. In 1905 when Nelson and Goldman came through it was know by three names: La Soledad, Matancita, or Santo Domingo Landing. It is here that they boarded a sailing vessel owned by the Chartered Company of Lower California for a trip to Isla Magdelena and Isla Santa Margarita.

Today, it is officially know as Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos, named after one of Mexico's former presidents. The town survives on commercial fishing and whale watching. The bay that fronts the village is one of the major breeding and calving grounds for the gray whale. JT and I jumped on a boat with a very nice couple (he is American and she is Australian). They wanted someone to split the cost of the boat and the captain assured us that there were still three mothers with calves in the bay.

We had a good trip and motored alongside one mother and her calf for about an hour. They did not want to engage with us and kept us at a distance the entire time. We were able to get some other footage of coyotes, herons, frigate birds, and fishermen cleaning their catch on the island shores.

Both of us were in bad shape and needed showers in the worst way. When you can't stand yourself, you know you are affecting those around you. So, we secured a room in Ciudad Insurgentes for two nights to charge up all of our devices, download and copy data, and get a shower. We are also spending this time to go through footage and gear and get a feel for what we may need during the next month.

Note from the Crew, Re: Expedition Blogs

The Devil's Road crew would like to note that days 31 through 38 of the expedition will follow, out of order, starting after day 47. We apologize for the mishap, but hope you'll enjoy nonetheless! 

Sincerely, 

The Crew

"The Devil's Road" Main Expedition, Day 47

I woke up feeling somewhat somber, knowing that in a few hours I would have to drive to San Jose del Cabo, hop on a plane, and go home.

On asking JT and Papa how they felt the week’s filming went, they said they were pleased with accomplishing what they had hoped to throughout the week. The goal was threefold: ride horses into the Sierra la Laguna, following a similar route taken by Nelson and Goldman; surf some of Baja’s beaches (as it is one of only a few things Baja is known for to the outside world and is an important economic and cultural contributor for some places on the peninsula); and capture the opulence of Cabo San Lucas. I’d say the week was a success.

This did little to uplift my spirits completely. As we veered inland, all I could think about was that blue again. It's no wonder that legendary conservationist, scientist, and filmmaker Jacques Cousteau called the Sea of Cortez the world's aquarium. And let's not forget his famous quote: "The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever."

I was leaving it behind again--and already I was planning the next time I’d see it. It is always with some degree of hesitancy or reserve, however. I always fear the state I will find it in when I return. It will never be as it was the time before, and its future is uncertain. 

As the plane rumbled forward, then lifted, I looked out the window and bid the wondrous place a silent farewell. 

"The Devil's Road" Main Expedition, Day 46

Guest blog by Associate Producer Bri Bruce

Woke to a thick haze in the air, a mixture of fog and smoke—likely burning trash.

JT, Papa and I headed to Cerritos early, where I rented a board from a guy named Juan at one of the stands we had seen the day before. The surf was decent, though somewhat disorganized, more or less an extended beach break that sweeps around a rocky point below a large hotel on the cliff. There were only a few others out, and I enjoyed a handful of fast waves with short rides. 

I did a short interview with JT afterwards, then interviewed Juan who told us all about the changes he’d seen at this beach in the last ten years. The beach used to be relatively unknown, and was unbuilt, “undiscovered.” But now, more than a few large hotels dot the stretch of beach, and people come from all over the world to surf and swim. Juan explained how sad it was, but ultimately it was good for business. He and his brother owned the stand, provided rentals and lessons to beachgoers, and slept right there in the sand most nights.

We spent a few hours in the evening in the central part of Cabo San Lucas, walking the stretch of beach in front of the resorts that gave us a good view of Land’s End, the boats leaving and entering the harbor, and all the people.

We found an out-of-the-way place for some tacos and beer, then roamed around the main streets to film some of the nightlife. Loud music poured from the open entryways of bars and nightclubs. Men stood on the sidewalk handing out flyers, attempting to usher us into their establishments. There were families, and sunburnt couples, gaggles of women in high heels, groups of men yelling and jostling one another. Every so often we’d pass a bachelorette party, colorful tiaras or boas setting them apart.

Once we had our fill of Cabo, we made our way back to Todos Santos. We were silent on the drive home, most of us likely reflecting on the day, and the week, knowing some of us would be leaving in the morning.

"The Devil's Road" Main Expedition, Day 45

Guest blog by Associate Producer Bri Bruce

Awake before the others, Papa and I decided to go for a drive to see the area. We headed north toward La Pastora, through a sparsely built area, then drove out to a beach where several cars (including a school bus that had been converted to an RV) were parked in the sand. There were several surfers in the water beyond the rocky beach and we stood watching them for a while, noting they were wearing wetsuits in the much cooler water. We returned south, heading for Pescadero, and wound through the hills and dirt roads there, stopping at another beach, this time deserted. ATV tracks scarred the beach, not a person in sight. The beach was not conducive to swimming—or surfing—as the step beach caused the waves to double over and break right on the shore.

Continuing south again, we came to Cerritos, taking a dirt road from Mex19 to the ocean. Between the two large hotels on the stretch of beach, we found a smaller road that dead-ended into a series of tents and umbrellas. There were vendors selling hats and jewelry, tourists lounging about in beach chairs. Several stands of surfboards were propped up, with signs reading “Rentals” and “Lessons.” After doing a quick scan of the boards, and talking to a few of the people offering rentals, I found a stand to come back to tomorrow.

After a late breakfast back at the complex, JT and Papa left to film on the bikes, so Heidi, Jade, and I walked around Todos Santos’s historic district to visit a few museums and galleries. We stopped for some fresh fruit with chili and lime at the mission before heading back to plan the rest of the trip’s filming.